New Prowler 13 front hatch gasket

I’ve read at least one member complain about the hassle of installing the neoprene cover used to seal the front hatch on the Prowler 13 and haven’t seen this posted here yet.

OK now has a gasket that can be used to seal the front hatch on the Prowler 13 instead of using the neoprene cover. Apparently OK will exchange out the gasket for the neoprene cover free of charge.  Owners have commented that the gasket is very waterproof and makes the hatch much more user friendly.

Pic of the new gasket:




Check out this link for more info:

http://kfs.infopop.cc/eve/ubb.x/a/tpc/f/9076050875/m/800108919/r/800108919#800108919

Excellent.   I had a feeling that a simple gasket would fix that complaint.

Thanks James!

This'll eliminate my only real dissatisfaction with my boat.

Here's to ya!  

Randy

It sounds like installing this gasket was a breeze for others.  Since it wasn't for me, I figured there may be one other person who finds it tricky.  So, here is how I did it.
Pat
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Installing the OK Prowler 13 retrofit hatch gasket

This is for the new hatch gasket available for the Prowler 13 to replace the neoprene skirt that fits under the hatch lid.

My gasket came with no instructions.  Having now done it, here is what worked for me.

Have the gasket warm.  It was cold this morning so I put mine in a net bag (sweater/lingerie?) and tossed it in with the morning’s laundry, in the dryer on low, for a few minutes.

Locate the end of the gasket with the extra tongue.  You will begin with this end.  Beginning at the bottom of the hatch opening, the end closest to the cockpit, slide the bottom slit over the hatch rim.  The soft, tubular top is up towards you.  The flat edge is on the inside of the kayak.

The slit is tight.  Take your time working it back and forth across the edge of the hatch opening.  If you crimp the edge, warm it up a bit and work it back open with a soft plastic implement such as a plastic spackle knife.  Once you have a section slid on, gently tap it firmly into place with a rubber mallet.  This is especially important on the curve along the front edge of the hatch as it will slide part way on but not be fully well seated.  As you continue on, if it wasn’t well seated, the tension will prevent you from seating it.  So, do it well as you go.

Continue all around the hatch until the two ends meet.  Slide your working end as well on as you can so as to get a good measure for where to cut off the excess.  Cut with a sharp pair of heavy, utility shears.  Stick the tongue in the roll, re-slip the end over the last bit of hatch lip and you are done.